Restaurants and
Provisions
There's one name you should
know before you order a highball at any local restaurant - Hannah Jumper. On
July 8, 1856, Miss Jumper and her band of not-so-merry women jumped the town's
too oft' visited grog shops. Hatchets in hand, they smashed every last keg and
bottle. To this day, Rockport remains a dry town, so it's a good idea to check
about a restaurant's BYOB policy. (Note: In 2005 Rockport voters approved the
sale of alcoholic beverages in local restaurants).
On Bearskin Neck, head to
Hannah's namesake restaurant, along the Harbor Deck (978-546-3600), for
sandwiches, salads, seafood, chowder, and one of the best vistas out of the
harbor. If you're looking for a more creative/romantic choice, try My Place By
The Sea (978-546-9667) at the end of the neck.
At the central T Wharf, Ellen's
Harborside Restaurant (978-546-2797) offers hickory smoked pit barbecue and
fresh seafood selections. This is good ol'-fashioned-cookin' with prices to
match. You'll find many other notable eateries in town - just follow your nose
and be sure to check the daily specials boards.
Head up to the Whistlestop Mall
on Railroad Avenue for groceries at the IGA, or basic boating needs at Smith's
hardware next door. The town's merchants don't want anyone caught short of
cash so you'll have no trouble finding a bank.
Navigation and
Anchorages
Use MAPTECH
electronic charts or NOAA paper charts 13279 (1:20,000), 13274 (1:40,000), and
13278 (1:80,000). Use tide tables for Portland, Maine. High tide at Rockport
is 4 minutes later, low tide is 2 minutes later. Use Portland, Maine
predictions for height at high or low water. Mean tidal range is 8.6 feet.
Rockport Harbor is protected by
two breakwaters: one extending east from Bearskin Neck, the other jutting
north from the Headlands. Even with this protection, the harbor is
exposed to strong easterly and northeasterly winds. Rockport is 11.5nm by boat
northeast of Gloucester Harbor, 19.1nm south of Gosport Harbor (Isles of
Shoals), and 7.7nm east of the entrance to Essex Bay.
Approaching from Portland,
the Isles of Shoals, and the north,
it's a straight shot to
flashing green gong "1 AHP" north of Halibut Point.
Then head for flashing green gong "3" [WP-270] at
the northwest end of the submerged breakwater. In the late 1800's, Congress
authorized construction of a 9,000-foot breakwater to enlarge and protect
Rockport's harbor. Six thousand feet of base and part of the superstructure
were laid before the money stopped, creating a million dollar navigational
hazard. Be sure to leave it to port.
From gong "3", head
south-southeast to red nun "4" at the harbor entrance, being sure to
stay east of Harbor Rock (covered 2 feet at mlw).The flashing red 4sec
"6", topped with a red dayboards, marks the breakwater at the
entrance.
If you happen to be coming from England or the east,
avoid Flat
Ground (.5nm long covered by 3 to 15 feet water) and Little
and Dry
salvages (awash and bare). The safest route is to pass well north of
both green bell "1", at Flat Ground and flashing green gong
"3", [WP-9815]
marking the submerged breakwater.
Coming from Gloucester and the southwest, head
northeast from flashing red 4sec whistle "2", south of Eastern
Point, to just east of Thacher Island (marked by 166 ft. flashing red
5sec horn). In good weather, it's impossible to miss the imposing pair of
124-foot gray granite towers.
CAUTION:
Be sure to avoid Londoner Shoal
(1 foot mlw) to the east-southeast. It's marked with only a black cylindrical
cage on a spindle - no light.
Swing north-northwest after
clearing Thacher Island and Londoner Shoal, and head for flashing red 4sec
bell "2" at Avery Ledge. Give Straitsmouth Island (low
and grassy), marked by 46-foot flashing green 4sec horn, a wide berth. At bell
"2" bear west-southwest for the harbor entrance. Pass green can
"3" marking a 9-foot rock, on either side, and mark flashing red
4sec "6", topped with dayboards, at the harbor entrance.There are
many enticing coves and beaches along your trip from Gloucester. They make for
great exploring in optimum weather and sea conditions - otherwise stay
offshore.
Rockport Harbor
is compact, filled with
boats and,appropriately, shaped like a lobster. The opening between the
breakwaters (the tail) is approximately 50yards wide with depths from 10 to 14
feet mlw. The inner harbor splits at the town wharf into north basin (right
claw: commercial boats) and south basin (left claw: mostly small sailboats).
For years, Rockport has been
bypassed by cruising boaters because it doesn't have a marina or boatyard.
Well, two new Harbormasters and a more transient-friendly attitude have done a
lot to improve the situation.While there aren't any official transient slips
or moorings, the Harbormasters are very accommodating. If you contact them
ahead of time (978-546-9589) or VHF 9, they'll do their best to arrange space
for you.
If there's no room inside, your
best bet is to anchor off the beach just to the north of Bearskin Neck. It
gets a little rough in high north-west winds, but like the cove just south of Sandy Bay Ledge,
it offers very good holding.
Granite Cove
is chock full of moored
boats.You can tie your dinghy at the town dock and walk to the end of Granite
Pier for a commanding view of Sandy Bay and Rockport. Pigeon
Cove to the north is used solely by commercial fishermen. The
LEGO-stacked, pink granite blocks aren't the remains of a giant kid's game;
they're real-life fortifications - when the nor'easters come rolling through,
it's WAR. If nothing else, take warning - if east or northeasterly winds are
forecast, get out. Head for Gloucester.
If you have any questions
or concerns, hail the Harbormasters.
They're always on call, ready to help.
